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Can Portuguese sardines make a comeback?

September 13, 2022 — Once upon a time, on the outskirts of Lisbon, villagers threw their doors open to the street whenever they heard the clopping of donkeys laden with baskets of sardines. Every household claimed its share of Portugal’s ocean bounty. But one day in early 1773, the Marquis of Pombal, a statesman who ruled the country much as the prime minister does today, learned that yet another load of sardines had been smuggled across the border into Spain. No more, he declared.

The Marquis promptly founded the General Company of the Royal Fisheries of the Kingdom of Algarve, and a new relationship among the Portuguese coastal communities was forged: The central government in Lisbon would thereafter manage the sardine industry.

If abundance means royalty, the sardine was the queen of the Portuguese coast three centuries ago. An upwelling of cold, highly saline water above the continental shelf here provides abundant nutrients for the phytoplankton and zooplankton that feed a variety of pelagic fish. Schools of sardines in these waters could reach the size of a soccer field and exceed 10 tons.

Today, however, the Portuguese sardine industry has declined significantly, under pressure from waters warmed by climate change, as well as overfishing. Scientific data gathered since the 1900s show that Portugal is a long way away from reaching sustainable populations of the Ibero-Atlantic sardine stock it now shares with Spain. In recent decades, concern for the health of its fish resources led Portugal to join the International Council for the Exploration of the Sea (ICES), an intergovernmental marine science organization that promotes the sustainable use of the oceans.

The Pacific sardine population, which extends from Mexico to the Canadian border with the United States, faces similar challenges. Those fish provide not only fresh and canned food for humans, but also feed marine species such as whales, sea lions, sea birds, and even Chinook salmon.

In 2020, a monitoring campaign by the Portuguese Institute of Sea and Atmosphere (IPMA) and the Spanish Oceanography Institute announced some good news: a sardine biomass inrcrease of around 110,000 tons—the most exciting rise in the past 15 years.

A cause for hope, yes, but not a reason to relax, says Gonçalo Carvalho, director of Sciaena, a nongovernmental organization that encourages sustainable fisheries. To Carvalho, a marine biologist who specializes in policy, the past has shown the dramatic consequences of poorly administered conservation measures. According to ICES data, provided mainly by IPMA but also by Spanish research institutions, the loss of sardines in just 31 years has been colossal. In 1984, sardine biomass measured around 1.3 million tons; in 2015, it was just one-tenth of that.

Read the full article at National Geographic 

High seas have become ‘safe haven’ for labor abuse, illegal fishing: study

April 6, 2022 — Coastal regions off West Africa, the mid-Atlantic near Portugal and waters off Peru are the riskiest spots for illegal fishing and labor abuse, with most occurring aboard vessels registered to China and other countries with poor anti-corruption oversight, a new study has found.

The study, published in Nature Communications, found that nearly half of more than 750 ports assessed worldwide are linked to either labor abuse or illegal, unreported and unregulated fishing.

The high seas have become “a safe haven” for illegal fishing, with millions of tons of such fish caught every year, authors wrote, incorporating an online survey of experts that revealed the pervasive nature of these practices.

Researchers found that vessels that engage is such activity also often have labor abuses on board, including practices such as forced labor, debt bondage and poor conditions.

Read the full story at The Hill

 

MASSACHUSETTS: NB Fishing Heritage Center highlights Portuguese immigration and culture

June 9, 2020 — This June, New Bedford Fishing Heritage Center will present a series of digital programs related to Portuguese immigration and culture on New Bedford’s working waterfront. These programs are part of a series based on the Center’s latest exhibit, We Came to Fish, We Came to Work: Stories of Immigration.

The Port of New Bedford has long drawn immigrants from around the world. Despite differences in language and culture, a highly-valued fishing industry developed, drawing on the strengths of immigrants from all over the world including Norway, Cape Verde, Guatemala, Nova Scotia, Vietnam, and Portugal. “We Came to Fish, We Came to Work: Stories of Immigration” explores stories of immigration and cultural heritage on New Bedford’s working waterfront. Over the next 8 months, the center will look at cultural heritage through a variety of programs including film screenings, cooking and craft demos, performances and talks, which will be offered virtually until the center re-opens to the public.

Thursday, June 11 at 7 p.m. ”Portuguese Immigration and the Fishing Experience: A Virtual Illustrated Talk,” featuring sociologist Gloria deSa, photojournalist Peter Pereira, and photographer Ron Fortier will be presented. Learn about fishing in Portugal as well as about Portuguese immigration and the Portuguese community in New Bedford today. This event will be live streamed to the center’s Facebook page,facebook.com/NBFishingHeritageCenter.

Read the full story at the New Bedford Standard-Times

MASSACHUSETTS: ‘On the shoulders of giants:’ New Bedford honors Portuguese fishermen

June 6, 2018 — Giants filled Seamen’s Bethel on Tuesday afternoon.

A ceremony dedicated to Portuguese fishermen lost at sea used the moment to not only remember those who died but also those who lived.

Tears filled the eyes of Peter Pereira, who organized the event, and his voice cracked a bit as he pointed to his father, whom he also called his hero.

“My generation is a fortunate generation. Why?” said Pereira, a Standard-Times photographer. “Because we have lived all our lives standing on the shoulders of giants. Giants. Courageous men and women. We never had to do anything compared to you guys.”

Many of the giants Pereira referred to came from Figueira da Foz, Portugal. Five gave their lives while sailing from New Bedford.

President of Figueira da Foz Joao Ataide and a few dozen in attendance remembered them.

Read the full story at the New Bedford Standard Times

Breakthrough in omega-3 understanding could revolutionize feed industry

May 31, 2018 — A new study, led by the University of Stirling in Scotland, has led to a major discovery about the way in which omega-3 long-chain polyunsaturated fatty acids are produced in the ocean.

According to lead scientist Oscar Monroig from the university’s Institute of Aquaculture, the breakthrough challenges the generally held principle that marine microbes, such as microalgae and bacteria, are responsible for virtually all primary production of omega-3 fatty acids, which are essential for human health, and have been proven to be particularly useful in combating and preventing cardiovascular and inflammatory diseases.

Instead, an international team of scientists from the United Kingdom, Portugal, Spain, Japan, and Australia found that omega-3s can be created by many marine invertebrates.

“Our study provides a paradigm shift in understanding, as it demonstrates that a large variety of invertebrate animals, including corals, rotifers, molluscs, polychaetes and crustaceans, possess enzymes called ‘desaturases’ of a type that enable them to produce omega-3, an ability thought previously to exist almost exclusively in marine microbes,” Monroig said.

Read the full story at Seafood Source

 

Massachusetts: New Bedford Fishing Heritage Center celebrates Portuguese Heritage

May 23, 2018 —  NEW BEDFORD, Mass. — The following was released by the New Bedford Fishing Heritage Center:

The New Bedford Fishing Heritage Center will host a variety of programs to explore and celebrate Portuguese heritage during the month of June. Resident artists Manny Vinagre and Manny Catulo will demonstrate their crafts, a film chronicling the dory fishing days of the White Fleet will be shown, and Fado singer Ana Vinagre will entertain with songs of loss and longing. All events are free and open to the public.

Resident artist Manny Vinagre will demonstrate Portuguese decorative knot work on Saturday June 2nd and Saturday June 9th from 1:00 to 3:00 each day. Mr. Vinagre learned how to tie seaman’s knots at escolaprofisional de pesca (fish school) in Portugal over 50 years ago. Now a retired fisherman, he now creates intricately woven cintos (belts) and bolsas (bags) of his own design using synthetic rope.  Each belt or bag is unique, with original patterns created through the use of color and texture, that Manny plans out in his head for each piece.

On Friday, June 15th at 7:00 p.m., The Lonely Doryman will be the featured Dock-U-Mentary film. For more than four centuries, young Portuguese fishermen went to the Grand Banks of Newfoundland and Greenland to fish for cod. Known as the Portuguese White Fleet, men set off on schooners under full sail to then drift in a flat-bottomed dory as they baited hundreds of hooks on long-lines. They labored 18 hours a day in pursuit of cod. This 1968 National Geographic film provides a rare window into this life.  Retired fisherman Manny Vinagre, who fished as part of the White Fleet before emigrating to New Bedford, will share memories of his dory fishing days. The film will be shown at the New Bedford Whaling National Historical Park’s theater.

Resident artist Manny Catulo will demonstrate the art of model boat making on Saturday June 16th and Saturday June 30th from 1:00 p.m. to 3:00 p.m. each day. Mr. Catulo recreates the traditional fishing boats that plied the waters of Portugal prior to World War II. These wooden boats predate the engine and were propelled by oar and sail. His detailed models begin as planked hulls and are then brightly painted in traditional blues, greens, and reds. He carves miniature oars, creates tiny anchors, fishing nets complete with floats and sinkers and even bailers. He will also have model boats on display.

A free concert featuring Ana Vinagre, one of the area’s best known, and most respected, Fadistas will take place on Thursday June 28th from 7:00 to 8:30 p.m. Born in Portugal, she immigrated to New Bedford as a young woman with her husband Jose. Both had been members of folkloric dance and music ensembles and they have continued to perform at area Portuguese restaurants, community events, and in festivals and concerts around the nation. They take great pride in their culture and enjoy teaching American audiences about the tradition of Fado music, a genre that developed in the port city of Lisbon and was performed at waterfront clubs and bars frequented by sailors and seamen.

This series is funded in part by Massachusetts Cultural Council.

The New Bedford Fishing Heritage Center is dedicated to preserving and presenting the story of the commercial fishing industry past, present, and future through archives, exhibits, and programs. For more information, email programs@fishingheritagecenter.org or call the Center at (508) 993-8894.

 

NFI seeks to reach administration on seafood trade in 2018

January 2, 2018 — Pressing the importance of all trade on the Donald Trump administration, including imported seafood, will be one of the top priorities of the National Fisheries Institute (NFI) in 2018.

The US seafood industry’s biggest trade association, representing close to 300 companies, is still smarting from several of the moves made by the White House and its Cabinet in their first year, including its formal withdrawal from a trade deal with Pacific countries, a lack of progress on a trade deal with Europe and implementation of the Seafood Import Monitoring Program (Simp).

But NFI president John Connelly said trade will remain a top focal point for the group in the New Year.

“We just need to spend more time on the Hill and in the administration to help them appreciate that not all trade is negative for the US,” Connelly told Undercurrent News in an December interview at his office in McLean, Virginia. “Seafood is not like steel or autos or something else. We cannot now produce enough seafood in the US, whether it be from wild capture or aquaculture, to feed all Americans.”

The US exports 40% to 60% of the seafood it produces, depending on the value of the dollar and some other factors, and imports about 85% of the seafood it consumes. Seafood is responsible for 1,270,141 jobs in the U.S. and imports account for 525,291 of those, according to Department of Commerce data noted by the association.

“Gladys, down in Brownsville, Texas, is cutting imported tilapia right now, and that job is extraordinarily important to her family. Why is that job any less important than a job involving domestic codfish?” Connelly said.

High points and low points in 2017

But in looking back at 2017, Connelly can point to at least one major trade-related victory: The removal of the prospective border adjustment tax from the legislative tax overhaul passed by Congress and signed by the president before leaving on its winter break. The provision, which was supported by several Republican leaders, would have forced some seafood dealers to raise their prices 30% to 40%, said Connelly, quoting a Wall Street Journal article.

Read the full story at Undercurrent News

 

Why a small, oily, strong-tasting fish is showing up on restaurant menus

November 2, 2017 — You probably didn’t expect to see sardines on the list of 2017 food trends. The small, oily fish have an assertive flavor that can be a turnoff for some. Most people associate them with cans, which runs contrary to our notion that the best food is fresh. They feel like a throwback to an era when people didn’t understand exactly how good food could be.

Americans “weren’t going to embrace grandpa’s can of sardines on the supermarket shelf,” says Elizabeth Moskow, culinary director for the Sterling-Rice Group, a branding agency that put sardines on its trend forecast for the year. But high-quality canned sardines, as well as fresh ones, are making more appearances on restaurant menus. “I think the American palate may be ready for something as strong as sardines,” Moskow says.

Sardines are high in omega-3 fatty acids, which may reduce the risk of heart disease. They’re also environmentally friendly, because they’re lower on the food chain.

Read the full story at the Washington Post

 

Bristol, Mass. sheriff’s captain charged with smuggling in Carlos Rafael case

August 31, 2017 — BOSTON — A captain with the Bristol County Sheriff’s Office was arrested and charged late Wednesday in connection with helping Carlos Rafael, the owner of one of the largest commercial fishing businesses in the U.S., smuggle the profits of his illegal overfishing scheme to Portugal, the U.S. Attorney’s Office said.

James Melo, 45, of North Dartmouth, was charged with one count each of bulk cash smuggling, structuring and conspiracy. He was released on a $10,000 unsecured bond following his appearance in federal court in Boston on Wednesday afternoon, authorities said.

In May 2015, federal agents began an undercover operation targeting Carlos Rafael, the owner of one of the largest commercial fishing businesses in the U.S. In the fall of 2015, undercover agents, posing as potential buyers of Rafael’s business, met with Rafael to negotiate buying his fishing business. Rafael told the agents that he hid the cash proceeds of his illegal fishing sales, in part, by smuggling the money to Portugal. Rafael said that he sometimes took the money himself, but also used the services of others, and referred to knowing several members of the Bristol County Sheriff’s Office, including Melo, whom he described as, “the captain at the prison,” the U.S. Attorney’s Office said in a statement sent to news media.

Read the full story at the New Bedford Standard-Times

Fishing mogul Carlos Rafael pleads guilty to conspiracy, other charges

March 31, 2017 — The following is an excerpt from a story published yesterday by the New Bedford Standard-Times:

Carlos Rafael walked into Courtroom 18 on the fifth floor three minutes prior to his scheduled 2:30 p.m. plea hearing in front of Judge William G. Young at U.S. District Court on Thursday.

An hour and 15 minutes later he stood and faced the court clerk and uttered “Guilty,” when she informed him the U.S. Attorney has charged him with 28 counts, including falsifying fishing quotas, false labeling, conspiracy and tax evasion.

“Today I pled guilty to the charges facing me,” Rafael said in a statement released by his lawyers. “I am not proud of the things I did that brought me here, but admitting them is the right thing to do, and I am prepared to accept the consequences of my actions.”

A sentencing hearing was set for June 27 at 2 p.m., when the New Bedford fishing tycoon could face as much as 76 months in prison, although Assistant U.S. Attorney Andrew Lelling recommended 46 months.

“Mr. Rafael’s scheme not only compromised delicate fish populations, but also profited on the backs of his hard-working crew,” Acting United States Attorney William D. Weinreb said in a statement.

“Mr. Rafael knew he was breaking the law by falsifying records, evading taxes and smuggling ill-gotten profits to Portugal. Without Mr. Rafael and his scheme, New England fishermen who work hard for honest pay can now enjoy a more level playing field.”

Read the full story at the New Bedford Standard-Times

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