April 29, 2014 — Talking trash on the docks is nothing new. But talk of how to turn "trash fish" — netted fish that is in less demand — into treasured bounty is a different story. And the idea offers hope for creating new markets that can benefit both fishers and fish.
The fact is, a lot of fish goes to waste in the world. According to a recent Oceana report, U.S. fisheries discard an astounding 2 billion pounds per year. Most of that is due to bycatch — unintentionally caught species, including endangered mammals, sea turtles, sharks and seabirds, which are then tossed back into the water. But a lot of bycatch is perfectly edible fish, discarded simply because the fish don't garner enough value to merit space on the boat. And therein lies the opportunity: creating demand for those fish offers a way to reduce food waste and help fishers.
Bringing trash fish to the people
So, how do you turn trash fish into a tasty meal? Enlist talented, daring chefs and put on a show. Chef's Collaborative has hosted a number of Trash Fish dinners, inviting chefs to prepare elaborate multi-course meals featuring undervalued but sustainably harvested species. The result? Sold-out events from L.A. to Boston, and diners satiated on species such as redfish, Atlantic pollock, sand dabs and surf clams. The idea works not only because the chefs show that these species can taste good, but also because sustainable seafood distributors such as Sea to Table and Red's Best are helping to make these underappreciated species more readily available to customers, while securing better prices for the fishers. Using innovative distribution models and technologies, these businesses are reinventing how fish moves from water to plate, tying story to fish in ways that further increase the value of the catch. Fishers and chefs are finding that a good enough tale (and the right sauce) can turn even baitfish into a sold-out entree.