Saving Seafood

The New England fish dish that saved a nation

Shad bakes are a dance of heat and timing that have been going on for generations up and down the East Coast of the United States for more than 100 years.

September 6, 2017 — Joseph Shea presides over a culinary jigsaw puzzle. He and his apprentices squat around a hexagonal fire, shifting slabs of wood with fish nailed to them against the heat. Flames lick at angled oak planks, coaxing out the oils of the American shad, Connecticut’s state fish, and cooking it to a delicate crust just steps away from where it was spawned.

At a call from the bake master, a fire-tender hoists a numbered plank from the heat source and hurries it across the lawn, where a team of workers unhinge half a dozen fish from their crucifix and pass the plate to the server with assembly-line accuracy: gill to gullet in 30 minutes or less.

This dance of heat and timing has been going on up and down the East Coast of the United States for more than 100 years. Though home-planked shad can be traced back to early 18th-Century cookbooks, large-scale shad bakes similar to Shea’s began in the late 1800s, when savvy travel marketers used the events as a way to entice an emerging middle class to the suburbs for entertainment and a taste of country life.

Today, the tradition is kept alive by civic organisations, most famously in the tiny Connecticut hamlet of Essex, which has held an annual Rotary Club shad bake since 1958.

This unique way of cooking large amounts of shad is a rite of spring in my home state of Connecticut. The filleted fish, its 1,000 tiny bones expertly removed, is nailed to boards and circled around a roaring fire. Angled in such a way and blackened by decades of reuse, the planks help release the excess fish’s oils into a pan below to make the fish light, imparting a flavour that cannot easily be replicated outside of an open fire.

The resulting delicacy, sometimes compared to a lean salmon, requires little else beyond the smoky taste of the fire – and strip of salt pork fat and a smattering of paprika for added flavour, applied to the fish before it hits the flame.

Read the full story at the BBC

Delaware River’s American shad population showing signs of rebound

May 4, 2017 — After years of declining American shad runs on the Delaware River, it looks like things may be trending in the right direction for the anadromous fish that makes its way up the river each spring to spawn. For the past few years, anglers have reported solid runs of the popular sportfish, with this year’s run being described as the best in decades.

“I’m here in the boat and I just had a double on while the phone was ringing,” said “Shad Pappy” George Magaro, explaining why he couldn’t immediately grab the phone when contacted. “This year has been fabulous.”

For Magaro, considered by many to be a legend among shad anglers, there are few days, if ever, he goes without latching onto at least a few shad. This year, however, his catches have been off the charts as he hauled in 191 fish in six outings, an average of 32 per trip.

“There are guys who’ve caught 150 in a day,” Magaro said. “The way the shad have been running this year, it’s like déjà vu from the late 1980s and early ’90s. The fish are here in good numbers.”

Magaro isn’t alone in his assessment. Eric Fistler, who runs the recently completed Bi-State Shad Fishing Contest, says the 2017 season has produced the best fishing he has seen in his lifetime. Angling before the 2017 shad fishing contest began, he and partner Mike Hinkel of Phillipsburg landed 80-plus shad in one afternoon. The next day, Fistler returned to the Delaware and had an experience most anglers only dream about.

Read the full story at The Morning Call

April 2017 Council Meeting in Avalon, NJ

March 21, 2017 — The following was released by the Mid-Atlantic Fishery Management Council:

Meeting Materials: Briefing documents will be posted at http://ww.mafmc.org/briefing/april-2017 as they become available.

Public Comments: Written comments must be received by Wednesday, March 29, 2017 to be included in the Council meeting briefing book. Comments received after this deadline but before close of business on Thursday, April 6, 2017 will be posted as “supplemental materials” on the Council meeting web page. After that date, all comments must be submitted using an online comment form. Comments submitted via the online form will be automatically posted to the website and available for Council consideration. A link to this form will be available at http://www.mafmc.org/public-comment.

Webinar: For online access to the meeting, enter as a guest at: http://mafmc.adobeconnect.com/april2017.

Tuesday, April 11th

10:30 a.m. – 12:00 p.m. River Herring & Shad Committee

  • Review draft metrics for river herring and shad conservation

12:00 p.m. – 1:00 p.m. Lunch

1:00 p.m. Council Convenes

1:00 p.m. – 3:00 p.m. State of the Ecosystem and EAFM

  • Report on the state of the Mid-Atlantic portion of the Northeast Large Marine Ecosystem, Dr. Sarah Gaichas – Ecosystem Dynamic and Assessment Branch, NEFSC
  • Continue discussion and development of EAFM Risk Matrix
  • Discuss next steps in EAFM development/implementation

3:00 p.m. – 3:30 p.m. Law Enforcement Reports

3:30 p.m. – 5:00 p.m. Chub Mackerel Amendment

  • Review amendment development and scoping plans

Wednesday, April 12th

9:00 a.m. Council Convenes

9:00 a.m. – 9:15 a.m. Ricks E Savage Award

9:15 a.m. – 11:00 a.m. Golden Tilefish Specifications

  • Review SSC, Monitoring Committee, Advisory Panel, and staff recommendations regarding 2018 – 2020 specifications
  • Adopt recommendations for 2018 – 2020

11:00 a.m. – 12:30 p.m. Blueline Tilefish Specifications

  • Review SSC, Monitoring Committee, Advisory Panel, and staff recommendations regarding 2018 – 2019 specifications
  • Adopt recommendations for 2018 – 2019

12:30 p.m. – 1:30 p.m. Lunch

1:30 p.m. – 2:00 p.m. A Review of Potential Approaches for Managing Marine Fisheries in a Changing Climate – Presentation, NMFS SF representative

2:00 p.m. – 3:00 p.m. Hudson Canyon Sanctuary Proposal

  • Presentation, discussion and comment

3:00 p.m. – 3:30 p.m. Update on Standardized Bycatch Reporting Methodology, Jon Hare – NEFSC

  • Challenges faced in 2016-2017 and plans for 2017-2018

3:30 p.m. – 5:00 p.m. Industry Funded Monitoring (IFM) Amendment

  • Consider previous action on IFM Amendment
  • Possible adoption of IFM Amendment

Thursday, April 13th

9:00 a.m. Council Convenes

9:00 a.m. – 1:00 p.m. Business Session

  • Committee Reports
    • River Herring & Shad
    • Ecosystem & Ocean Planning
    • Highly Migratory Species/Law Enforcement
      • Adopt recommendations for HMS permit/reporting issues
  • Executive Director’s Report, Chris Moore
  • Science Report, Rich Seagraves
  • Organization Reports
    • NMFS Greater Atlantic Regional Office
    • NMFS Northeast Fisheries Science Center
    • NOAA Office of General Counsel
    • Atlantic States Marine Fisheries Commission
  • Liaison Reports
    • New England Council
    • South Atlantic Council
    • Regional Planning Body
  • Continuing and New Business

Mild winter means early start to shad season

February 15, 2017 — That ding, ding, ding, off in the distance is a clanging bell, chiming in the start of the spring fishing season.

To some, that sound rings in the wakening of the redfish up in the marshes. To others, it means early season blowfish and sea mullet from the surf and piers. For the big tackle anglers, it ushers in their first trips to Gulf Stream and the Big Rock for yellowfin tuna, and for us light (tackle) at heart, the visions of streaking hickory shad at our other “Big Rock” on the Roanoke River, on all but the lightest of tackle.

With the so-far mild winter, with near- or above-normal water temperatures, the shad season is off to an early start. Reports are coming from the Neuse, even up to Kinston and beyond, and its spawnable brackish creeks, like the Tar River.

There are already reports of good of catches of American (white) shad, weighing up to four-pounds, and some hickory shad also being landed. Hopefully the Roanoke River will be close behind this year. Of course, water temperatures are the key.

Read the full story at Tideland News

Fishing Report: A new way to count fish

November 25, 2016 — Scientific surveys of fish are often done by trawling. This means towing a net and then hauling it up to count the catch. Estimates are then made about how many of each species are in a square mile. They are generally done in the same area for the same amount of time on a periodic basis.

The Rhode Island Department of Environmental Management does trawl surveys in Narragansett Bay, the National Oceanographic & Atmospheric Administration and a regional fisheries commission do trawl surveys too. Fish managers and scientists simply do not have the resources to do a proper job with survey trawls in our coastal waters, never mind areas outside our territorial waters (200 miles). Large tracts of the ocean are not monitored so we have no idea what fish are in the water globally, never mind how many are being taken out.

But a reliable and inexpensive way to monitor fish populations is being developed by scientists. Philip Thomsen and his team from the Natural History Museum of Denmark, are developing a a far less costly way to count fish.

The team is examining fragments of floating DNA which fish slough off in slime and scales, or excrete into the water.

A Nov. 19 Economist blog post said scientists “Hope they are able to link the quantity of this ‘environmental’ DNA to those species’ abundances, as measured by a trawl survey that took place at the same time… Given the fragmentary nature of environmental DNA, they found it easier to recognize families than species (a family, in this context, is the taxonomic level above a genus; herring, sardines and shad, for example, all belong to the family Clupeidae). The trawls picked up fish from 28 families. The team found DNA from members of 26 of these in their samples, and also detected three families that had no representatives entangled in trawl nets.”

Read the full story at the Providence Journal

MAINE: Taking Down Dams and Letting the Fish Flow

October 24, 2016 — BANGOR, Maine — Joseph Zydlewski, a research biologist with the Maine Cooperative Fish and Wildlife Research Unit of the United States Geological Survey, drifted in a boat on the Penobscot River, listening to a crackling radio receiver. The staccato clicks told him that one of the shad that his team had outfitted with a transmitter was swimming somewhere below.

Shad, alewives, blueback herring and other migratory fish once were plentiful on the Penobscot. “Seven thousand shad and one hundred barrels of alewives were taken at one haul of the seine,” in May 1827, according to one historian.

Three enormous dams erected in the Penobscot, starting in the 1830s, changed all that, preventing migratory fish from reaching their breeding grounds. The populations all but collapsed.

But two of the dams were razed in 2012 and 2013, and since then, fish have been rushing back into the Penobscot, Maine’s largest river.

“Now all of a sudden you are pulling the cork plug and giving shad access to a truckload of good habitat,” Dr. Zydlewski said. Nearly 8,000 shad have swum upstream this year — and it’s not just shad.

More than 500 Atlantic salmon have made the trip, along with nearly two million alewives, countless baby eels, thousands of mature sea lamprey and dozens of white perch and brook trout. Striped bass are feeding a dozen miles above Bangor in waters closed to them for more than a century.

Nationwide, dam removals are gaining traction. Four dams are slated for removal from the Klamath River alone in California and Oregon by 2020.

Just a few of these removals have occurred on such large rivers, which play an outsize role in coastal ecosystems. But the lessons are the same everywhere: Unplug the rivers, and the fish will return.

Read the full story at the New York Times

Fishery council says no to river herring and shad plan

October 7, 2016 — A call to put river herring and shad in the same fishery management plan as mackerel, squid and butterfish was voted down by the Mid-Atlantic Marine Fisheries Council.

Incidental bycatches in ocean trawl fisheries was a main reason behind the consideration, but the council will stick with a plan already in place for dealing with it.

American shad, hickory shad, alewife and blueback herring — a quartet of anadromous fish that are at historic low population levels — often mix with mackerel in the ocean.

They get scooped up incidentally in commercial trawl nets meant for mackerel. The MAMFC said the amount may be substantial enough to negatively impact their populations.

The plan had the support of many sport fishermen, environmental and conservation groups on the Eastern seaboard who said the it would’ve led to more aggressive stewardship on the species.

NOAA Fisheries Announces Proposed Management Measures for the 2016-2018 Atlantic Herring Fishery

June 22, 2016 — The following was released by NOAA Fisheries:

NOAA Fisheries announces proposed management measures for the Atlantic Herring fishery for the 2016-2018 fishing years. The proposed catch limits for fishing years 2016 through 2018 are slightly lower than the current catch limits because the most recent assessment shows a slightly lower spawning stock biomass and a slightly higher fishing mortality.

We are also proposing to increase the catch cap limits for river herring and American shad to increase access to the fishery, while still providing sufficient protection for these species.

Read the proposed rule as published in the Federal Register and supplemental documents.

The comment period is open through July 21.

You may submit comments by any one of the following methods:

  • Electronic Submission: Submit all electronic public comments via the Federal eRulemaking Portal. Click the “Comment Now!” icon, complete the required fields, and enter or attach your comments.
  • Mail: Submit written comments to NMFS, Greater Atlantic Regional Office, 55 Great Republic Drive, Gloucester, MA 01930. Mark the outside of the envelope “Comments on 2016-2018 Herring Specifications.”
  • Fax: (978) 281-9135, Attn: Shannah Jaburek.

Questions? Contact Jennifer Goebel at 978-281-9175 or email jennifer.goebel@noaa.gov.

Long slog ahead for new attempt to move shad past Conowingo, other dams

June 15, 2016 — Leon Senft remembers a time when he and other fishermen lined the shore of the Susquehanna River below the Conowingo Dam and hooked American shad almost as fast as they could cast their lines in the churning water.

“We really had a bonanza there for a while,” recalled Senft, 85, who’s been angling for the big migratory fish longer than most people are alive. “It was not unusual to catch 50–100 a day. My personal best was 175.”

That catch-and-release heyday for Senft was maybe 20 years ago, when American shad appeared to be on the rebound from a severe decline in their springtime spawning runs. Optimism abounded, as a big new fishlift hoisted more and more of them over the 94-foot dam on their way upriver to reproduce.

But the rebound went off the rails. Although the number of American shad getting a lift over Conowingo rose steadily for a decade, it then dropped and kept dropping.

Now, after years of study and negotiations, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service and Exelon Corp., Conowingo’s owner, have come up with a new plan for rebuilding the Susquehanna’s runs of American shad and river herring — related species that are even more depleted. In a press release announcing the deal in April, a federal wildlife official called it “a victory for everyone who lives or recreates on the Susquehanna River and the Chesapeake Bay.”

But those close to the situation are still cautious. Given the discouraging track record so far, they say, bringing these fish back will take a sustained effort for decades — if it can be done at all.

“I was around when we did this last time, 25 years ago,” said Bill Goldsborough, senior fisheries scientist for the Chesapeake Bay Foundation. “We thought that was going to do a lot more than it did.”

Read the full story at the Chesapeake Bay Journal

PENNSYLVANIA: Exelon reaches agreement to restore fish in Susquehanna

April 29, 2016 — Efforts to improve American shad and river herring populations in the Susquehanna River have increased thanks to a 50-year agreement announced on Monday by Exelon Generation and the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service.

Josh Tryninewski, a biologist for the state Fish and Boat Commission who manages the shad restoration effort, said the river’s shad population has been declining since 2001 because of limited access to adequate spawning habitats.

Shad and river herring are returning to their spawning on the Susquehanna at their lowest numbers since the 1980s, according to Exelon’s news release. The population peaked in 2001, when hundreds of thousands of shad and river herring passed Exelon’s Conowingo Dam, but that number has dwindled to 1,500 shad and 1,000 herring per year.

Read the full story from The York Dispatch in Bloomberg