July 23, 2024 — Health-conscious consumers who covet its brain-enriching Omega-3 have helped make salmon one of the fastest-growing food sources on the planet. Victoria Beckham told The Wall Street Journal last year she considers it a dietary staple. She’s not alone. In America, salmon is the second-most popular seafood after shrimp.
The fish frenzy has driven prices higher and spawned new billionaires, such as Gustav Magnar Witzøe, a 31-year-old Norwegian heir to a salmon fortune and a fashion model who made a splash at this year’s Met Gala in a salmon-colored Versace cape.
Norway’s fjords and coasts are the farmed fish’s top habitat, with around 500 million salmon swimming in the chilly waters—a ratio of roughly 90 Norwegian salmon to every Norwegian human.
Atlantic salmon farming, introduced as overfishing and river pollution shrank the wild salmon population, increased 74 times from 1985 to 2022. Salmon are bred in tanks on land, then moved into the ocean, where they swim in giant ring-shaped nets until they’re ready for human consumption.
But these days, the industry is swimming upstream.