At Miya’s Sushi in New Haven, you won’t find endangered bluefin tuna on the menu. For that matter, you won’t find many traditional sushi staples. Miya’s is part of a sustainable sushi movement that’s growing nationwide.
“I don’t miss the ingredients,’’ says chef Bun Lai. “It forces me to be much more creative and search for other ingredients. In my experience, if you stick to what you actually believe in, people will follow you.’’
Tim Cushman, of o ya in Boston, does serve bluefin. His customers expect it, he says. “When you’re running a business, it’s tough. You want first and foremost to give people what they want.’’
Bluefin tuna is only the beginning of the debate when it comes to sustainable sushi. But as the fish perhaps most prized by sushi connoisseurs, it’s an important symbol.