February 17, 2021 — The eggs, processed into tiny black pearls prized by the gastronomic world for their burst-in-the-mouth, briny flavor profile, were said by state fisheries employees to be needed for research on the sturgeon population in Wisconsin.
But prosecutors say the state biologist who oversees the traditional sturgeon spearing season in Lake Winnebago and its watershed, a rite of winter for fishing enthusiasts in the state, had acquired an expensive and illicit taste for the caviar that is made from the eggs.
The biologist, Ryan P. Koenigs, an employee of the Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources since 2008, accepted at least $20,000 in jars of caviar in return for supplying to a caviar processor eggs that had been collected under the guise of research, a criminal complaint filed last week in Winnebago County said.
The caviar-processing business is run by a former biologist for the state, according to prosecutors, who said it was one of several caviar processors that obtained sturgeon eggs as part of the bartering scheme. The former employee, who prosecutors said obtained 65 pounds of roe in 2015 that produced $100,000 in caviar, has not been charged.
In Wisconsin, state law requires the eggs to be returned to the person who speared the sturgeon, if requested, or discarded. Prosecutors noted that caviar produced from sturgeon eggs can sell for more than $100 an ounce.