March 14, 2016 — You can’t find a more intimate relationship between humans, food and nature than fishing, says Michele Mesmain, international coordinator of Slow Fish, a seafood spinoff of the Italy-based Slow Food movement. Think of all the thousands of boats at sea, catching wild creatures to haul back to shore and eat. “It’s our last source of widely eaten, truly wild food,” she says.
Held every odd-numbered year in Genoa, Slow Fish attracts about 50,000 chefs, fishers, scholars, activists and eaters to promote small-scale fishing, marine biodiversity, cooking and eating neglected seafood species. This year, organizers added a U.S. event — in New Orleans — to highlight fisheries in the Americas and threats to Louisiana’s vanishing independent fishermen.
The New Orleans event was born last year when New Orleans Slow Food chair Gary Granata and Carmo restaurateurs Dana and Christina Honn presented in Genoa. Granata says he spoke about Louisiana’s coast washing away due to erosion, “and Dana and Christina cooked Louisiana seafood in sauce piquant, and we said: ‘Come to New Orleans!’ ”
They meant it. To fund Slow Fish 2016, the group held “Trash Fish Happy Hours,” where customers could eat seafood — like porgy, small squid and whiting — that’s normally considered unwanted bycatch. Though the New Orleans Slow Fish gathering came together as an “all-volunteer, DIY sort of thing,” Granata says, it was far from unambitious. Alongside panel discussions about fisheries throughout the Americas, the hosts planned a full-on festival with a lineup of live, local music and chefs cooking Louisiana seafood, plus added delicacies from around North America.