August 21, 2015 — On a gleaming summer morning, Louis Rozzo steps out the door of a four-story stuccoed building on Ninth Avenue in Chelsea. The neighborhood has since transformed from its mid–19th-century beginnings as the epicenter of the city’s meat, produce and dairy industries, and today the street, lined with apartment buildings, coffee shops and restaurants, seems an unlikely location for a wholesale seafood operation. But this exact spot has been the headquarters of F. Rozzo and Sons  since Rozzo’s great-grandfather Felix moved his eponymous business here in 1924.

On the sidewalk just outside, Rozzo greets neighbors by name as they pass by on their way to work, and when two elderly women wander onto the wet cement floor in the front workroom, curious about buying some fish, he urges them inside.

A few guys, wearing yellow floor-length plastic aprons and waterproof boots, are still at work cleaning, scaling and portioning salmon into heavy-duty brown cardboard boxes. It’s close to 10 a.m. but Rozzo and his crew are nearing the tail end of a full day’s work, one that started in the wee hours of the morning. “I love what I do,” Rozzo tells the Voice, “but the hardest part of my job is getting out of bed.”

Read the full story at the Village Voice