March 20, 2018 — There’s no disputing these are difficult times for New England fishermen, with ever-tightening regulations, a diminishing catch and the added uncertainty brought on by climate change.

Among the dour news, however, there are hints of hope and optimism among those who feel the nation’s oldest industry still has something to offer.

Take, for example, the city of Gloucester’s outreach at the Seafood Expo North America in Boston earlier this month. The show, which attracts almost 22,000 seafood buyers and processors from more than 100 countries, is seemingly made for folks willing to hustle. And Gloucester was hustling.

For the last four years, the city has used the expo as a way to market itself to the rest of the country and across the world. And the Gloucester Fresh branding effort has paid off, most notably two years ago, when the Ninety Nine Restaurant chain agreed to feature Gloucester-landed haddock on its menu.

This year, the Gloucester crew was touting monkfish, an ugly creature that is nevertheless delicious when prepared by Cape Ann chefs, with a VIP tasting for about 75 buyers and processors. Meanwhile, Sal Di Stefano, the city’s economic development director, was pitching lobsters to a pair of South Korean visitors.

“They told me that all they do is buy Canadian lobsters, but they keep hearing more and more about American lobster,” Di Stefano told reporter Sean Horgan.

“We explained that American lobster is better and that Massachusetts lobsters are the best of the American species. Then we had them talk with (lobsterman) Mark Ring and they were thrilled to actually meet a lobsterman. We wouldn’t have had those interactions if we weren’t here.”

These relationships matter. The connection between Gloucester’s ocean-to-table deal with the Ninety Nine chain continues today, even as the local processors supplying the fish have changed.

“Chef George (Tagarelis) and I have been in our restaurants all week long with general managers and kitchen managers training on our brand-new spring menu, which begins April 2 and features ‘Gloucester Fresh’ simply seasoned fresh haddock,” the chain’s president, Charlie Noyes, said last week. “I’m sure our guests at the Ninety Nine will be as excited as we are that we continue to serve this local favorite.”

Indeed, change is everywhere, even at 170-year-old Gorton’s of Gloucester, one of the nation’s oldest continually operating businesses.

Even as it outlasts the competition, Gorton’s, with 425 employees, has remained an iconic part of the seafood industry, with much of its recent success attributed to trying to “connect with customers in unique ways,” Judson Reis, the company’s president, told members of the Cape Ann Chamber of Commerce earlier this month.

Read the full story at the Gloucester Times