February 19, 2021 — Acme Smoked Fish Co-Chairman Eric Caslow has died, the company said in a press release issued 18 February. The company did not announce the cause of death.
Along with his brother, Robert Caslow, who remains company co-chairman, Eric Caslow was the third generation of his family to run the Brooklyn, New York, U.S.A.-based fish smoker, which was founded in 1906 and has grown into one of the largest fish-smoking companies in the United States.
April 6, 2018 — Ziggy Gruber took a knife to the cardboard boxes, cracking them open to reveal 400 pounds of smoked fish.
The third-generation deli man sifted through the fresh delivery of nova salmon, sable and whitefish, flown in weekly from his supplier in Brooklyn. Gruber, the owner of Kenny & Ziggy’s in the Galleria area, is one of the largest purveyors of smoked fish outside of New York City, selling more than 1,000 pounds of lox and whitefish a week.
Looking over his fish order, Gruber noted he requested 20 pieces of sturgeon this week, but only three showed up. The sturgeon shortage has nearly doubled prices over the past two years, to $38 per pound from around $20, Gruber said.
“I see less and less,” Gruber said. “There’s only so much fish to go around.”
The consequences of a growing global appetite for seafood and warming seas are being felt in the kitchens of some of Houston’s most prominent seafood restaurants. Chefs are dealing with shifts in the seasonal availability of some fish, while dwindling supply of other fish are causing prices to climb.
The situation has become so dire at times that when Gruber’s fish supplier, Acme Smoked Fish, informed him four years ago that there might be a shortage of smoked fish over Yom Kippur — the Jewish deli’s busiest day — Gruber took the first flight to New York to plead with Acme to find some way to ship some 3,000 pounds of smoked fish for the holiday.
The order came through, but ever since, Gruber said, he keeps his fingers crossed around Yom Kippur.
“I’m concerned about the sustainability of these fish,” he said. “The combination of climate change and overfishing has turned an item that people consumed on a daily basis into a luxury item. And that’s sad.”
Manabu “Hori” Horiuchi of Kata Robata, a sushi restaurant in Upper Kirby, is one of a few chefs in the U.S. certified in preparing fugu, or blowfish, a popular delicacy among daring customers.
Read the full story at the Houston Chronicle
January 6, 2017 — “This looks like jewelry,” said Bloomberg Pursuits’ food editor, Kate Krader. “Like beautiful, luscious jewelry.”
The “this” in question was a small pile of smoked salmon from Barney Greengrass, and Krader, who’d spent the last five hours trudging across Manhattan and Brooklyn in an exhaustive attempt to sample some of the best smoked fish in New York, had hit a wall. “For what it’s worth,” she said with a faraway look in her eyes, “it tastes like it’s floating in the air.” (Krader was subsequently given a piece of a bagel and a glass of water and offered the opportunity to take a break. She persevered.)
Our restaurant expert is used to mouthwatering food binges, but Wednesday’s trip to Barney Greengrass, Zabar’s, Russ & Daughters, and Shelsky’s was a little different. Each of those delis, famed for their glistening stacks of smoked fish, uses one supplier, Brooklyn’s Acme Smoked Fish, for at least some of their stock. Each location, however, prices that same smoked salmon differently (from $39.96 to $45 a pound), and each location has its own dedicated following.
Krader was on a quest to see if the differences between each location’s Acme fish boiled down to mere marketing, or if there was something more sophisticated at play.
By the end of the day, stark distinctions between each store’s Acme fish had become apparent. “Our suppliers do special stuff for us,” said Joshua Russ Tupper, whose family founded Russ & Daughters in 1914 and who spoke to Krader as he was slicing fish behind the store’s Lower East Side counter. “They know our tastes.”
It was a claim made by virtually every location: Each store had specific criteria, and a special relationship with Acme, that made their fish “the best.”
“We have different types of salmon: wild fish, farmed fish—and then we have different sides of the fish,” said Ellen Lee-Allen, the senior marketing director at Acme Smoked Fish. “These are all variables that affect the finished product.”
What does not differ, she said, is the process in which the salmon in question is made—all of it cured with salt and then “cold smoked” in an oven at approximately 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Lee-Allen confirmed that each store has its own particular methodology for choosing its salmon—based on preferences in flavors or textures.